Friday, February 26, 2010

LFW : Mary Katrantzou Fall 2010


London Fashion Week was a mad rush! Having switched by time to -8 hours is really tough! To keep up with fashion week and catch live streams in the wee hours of the morning while everyone is asleep. However I really enjoyed my week as much exhausting as it is.

Mary Katrantzou currently tops my London shows favorites. I am sooooo in love with the collection. Every. single. dress is fabulous! Very very regal (it'll be good if the collection was released 2 years ago so as to help my art work in school)!

Not only consisting of prints but also ruffles in the collection (did not feature). Extremely beautiful collection. Every dress is like a painting, an art. Those platform boots with gold buttons are lust-worthy.


And as you can see, I've tagged my favorite look above. Which is the one in turquoise, very regal. Its like from a painting in the museum - prints at its best. In love with the last look (far right), military vibe to it with those badges and the red stripes.

Its a pity detailed images aren't out yet. I would love to see them close up. This is such an amazing collection! I love every single dress, so much detail. Each dress speaks for itself. I've always been a fan of Mary Katrantzou's prints and this definitely did not let me down. I am so impressed.

Dazed Digital also got to ask Mary Katrantzou some questions :

Dazed Digital: What were your inspirations?
Mary Katrantzou: It was 18th century portraiture and all the men and women in there. I was looking at artists like Fragonard and Madame de Pompadour and people like that. It was a fragmentation of what they used to wear and bring them onto a 21st century woman.

DD: How have your prints evolved for this season?
Mary Katrantzou: It's very different in its fabrication as it's more layered and it's not so much one graphic bold print on a single silhouette. It had to feel a little more free in the lines and that's why we integrated the frills and the lace and everything that was going on in there. Most importantly, it wasn't a symmetrical print and it was a lot more layered; some were repeats, some were motifs. In order to make it more interesting, there was a lot of assemblage of different influences.

DD: Can you tell us a little bit about the shapes?
Mary Katrantzou: For me, it was a collection of a signature style that was very austere, concentrating on the shift dress. This season, the theme gave me more freedom to play with fabrics. It's nice to make the clothes have some fantasy.

DD: Tell us about the names you give the dresses?!
Mary Katrantzou: They're a little ridiculous but we use them in the studio! Dante, Doma, Fireding, Ciderbing, Rubberdum, Gilda, Gilda's Mother…

Check out this video as models struts down the runway :


Read Style.com's Review by Sarah Mower :
Portraits of Madame de Pompadour, the paintings of Fragonard and Nattier—what could the frills and curlicues of the rococo have to do with the digital print revolution? "Yes, it's excessive, and decorative, and I know everyone else is talking about minimalism," shrugged Mary Katrantzou, backstage after her show. "But I knew I needed to go a little outside the stuff I've been doing. And I do like a challenge."

She was referring to the need to feel her way into new silhouettes as well as to find some way of breaking out of the kaleidoscopic swirls and sharp-angled geometric explosions that have characterized the sensational prints coming out of London in the last two or three years. Katrantzou, a print and textile expert, has been at the forefront of inventing a new visual language that has stunned fashion with its novelty—a language Alexander McQueen was also using fluently in his last two shows. Her problem, rightly anticipated, is that novelty quickly becomes cliché—and a cheap T-shirt dress on a market stall. To keep things interesting, Katrantzou knows she has to do something more sophisticated than a placement print on a shift dress.

This time, she merged photographic images of lace, jewels, ormolu, medals, and sashes in ways that vaguely recalled Gianni Versace's more-is-more scarf prints, and she sculpted some of them into shapes that echoed parts of military jackets. Printed vest-jackets, a couple of Napoleonic coats, and a frothy frill-front shirt added bandwidth to her offer, too. Still, the effects, though interesting, seemed slightly stiff and forced until Katrantzou let herself go at the end, sending out a couple of dresses that combined asymmetric bodices, lace patched against print, glints of metallic, and cascades of half-trains trailing off at the side. Somehow, they succeeded in hitting a note of oddness that seemed new.

* 2NE1's Park Bom have also worn Mary Katrantzou dress before, check it out!

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